For the final coat, I vacuum the work area again and let the dust settle overnight. As for your coffee table, yes, it’s definitely a candidate for buffing, even now. Even though it’s metal, fine steel wool can catch fire and burn easily. It only took me about five minutes to convert this cloudy lens to this much clearer lens using the buffing compound on that random orbit sander with the abrasive pad. You shouldn't have to sand the final coat. Before my "final coat", even if my previous coat was perfect, I sand with 400-600 and 0000 steel wool to make it silky smooth before that last coat. Under the piece to be finished, I spread out 6-mil poly to protect the floor from drips and spills and make cleanup easy. Hello everyone. For the final coat, I cheat a little and use the same brand spray on urethane for even coverage. Take your time, like the pros do, and you'll create a durable, smooth, lasting finish. I’ve sanded a lot of decks and done all kinds of woodworking with it, but it actually is a superb auto polishing tool, as well, if you have the right kind of pad. I sanded it with 220 grit and used a spray poly. Wipe down the project with a tack cloth, or a lint-free cloth saturated with solvent. So, can I buff as you described, minus the 320 grit on the foam block? Hello everyone. This is a thick, non-woven, synthetic abrasive material available at woodworking outlets and better hardware stores. Can I buff that now, too? I use a rub-on product from MinWax. I used a gel stain for color and then I have applied 3 coats of Varathane polyurethane with a satin finish. Sign up for our newsletter! Also, there’s another video further down that explains how to use buffing to restore an auto finish, and the Q&A section. After you have done your prep work on light sanding your piece, and applying how ever many coats of stain that you wish, I usually stain with flour sack towels, cheap and lint free. as you work, shine a light at a low angle across the surface. - Our Privacy Policy. Also, be sure to avoid fresh sandpaper for this job because it cuts too aggressively. 03:27 So, I’m gonna continue buffing and just see how good I can get that. And I’m gonna continue, and then show you the result when I get it as good as I can get it. You can turn the speed of your sander down a little bit, at least at the beginning until you get the hang of it. However, it dries too fast for all the little laps and strokes to flow and level themselves on a top large enough for dining. It all comes down to an operation called “buffing”. It only takes a few strokes to remove the dust bumps, so don’t overdo it. You can create such an area by hanging an inexpensive vinyl shower curtain in a corner of your shop. Sprayed a coffee table couple of years ago but got a little overspray of varnish. Got some scratches on your car or truck? Now comes the fun. Cut a 6-inch x 6-inch piece, place it on your project, then put your sander on top. If the finish balls up on the sandpaper or it won’t buff out to more than a satin sheen, let it sit for another week or two. All Rights Reserved. Not to hard to remove the polyurethane, you just want to remove the bumps. That looks worse close up than it does from a distance, but I’m not shooting for perfection here, but this is close enough. Some woodworkers like to use spray poly for a thin topcoat over base coats of conventional polyurethane, producing a final smooth coat without brush strokes. This is a 3M rubbing pad, so it’s non-woven. Click the window above to watch an overview of the power buffing process. Chalk Paint, Milk, Mineral or Latex—Which Paint is Best for Your Refinishing Project? It’s time to power buff. There seems to be a lot of controversy on a rough first coat of polyurethane and what to do about it. Then I buffed with 0000 wool and finished with furniture polish. When you sand and rub out the final finish you take off most of the surface which contains the satin. Sand in alternating directions with each abrasive to make it easier to see whether you've removed the scratches from the previous grit. I like it because only two things get dirty: a glove and a cotton rag, both of which I toss after each coat. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, Smooth and Flatten the Finish. This is a wet process, so I wanna keep it lubed with water and let’s see if this works. I want to show you a technique here that will allow you to produce glass-smooth finishes without spray equipment, just using an ordinary brush and polyurethane finish. This is standard practice with any wood finishing job, and is nothing out of the ordinary. No brushstrokes, puddles or thin spots. INSTALLING TRIM: Five Tips for Great Results (Plus Two Videos! Store it in a tightly-sealed metal can for safety. Go back and smooth out after a couple of minutes with same brush. After the finish is on, I immediately roll small workpieces into my shop bathroom, which is nearly dust free. Let the Final Coat Dry in a Dust-Free Area. It can get even shinier if you buff more. This, I’ve just finished and compare it to this one. Switch on the power. 03:00 Well, I think that things are happening here. in the grain direction to hide fine Now it feels about the same, but you can see some shinier reflections there. The more you use it, the shinier things get. It all comes down to the right kind of abrasion. So, the sander causes the rubbing pad to move and polishes the surface. If you are going to do that you might as well use a … There are a couple of spots, maybe I’ll go at that a little bit more. Buffing might be able to help with that, too. You can power-buff all kinds of finishes – wood, metal, and even car bodies. You’re not trying to remove significant amounts of polyurethane, just to knock off those little high spots. It’s all about rolling poly on the big areas, using wipe on poly on the small ones, and above all, controlling dust. I have a 6″ orbital polisher to work with. This might help; depending on what type of finish you want to achieve. Just so, do you sand after last coat of polyurethane?


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